Skagway & Juneau, Alaska
Skagway is surrounded by natural beauty.
Fjords, water and mountains cradle the town, steeped in history and character. The sights, story telling, natural beauty and entertainment all contributed to our memorable 4 day stay.
We were visited by Ryan Redington, a young, up and coming, Alaskan dog sled musher.
Many of our group knew little about mushing, so Ryan and dog Toby enlightened us on Alaska's favorite winter sport and the near and dear to his heart, the Iditarod Race, a 1000 mile sled dog race. A more apt term might be endurance test . The 1000 mile race is run in March, starting in Anchorage and ending in Nome, Alaska. Approximately 90 teams from all over the world compete. Each musher runs a team of 12-18 dogs.
Many of our group knew little about mushing, so Ryan and dog Toby enlightened us on Alaska's favorite winter sport and the near and dear to his heart, the Iditarod Race, a 1000 mile sled dog race. A more apt term might be endurance test . The 1000 mile race is run in March, starting in Anchorage and ending in Nome, Alaska. Approximately 90 teams from all over the world compete. Each musher runs a team of 12-18 dogs.
Ryan's grandfather, Joe Redington is remembered as the "Father of the Iditarod". He started the Iditarod race for two reasons: Joe wanted to make sure that sled dogs stayed a part of the way of life in Alaska and he wanted the Iditarod Trail to become a National Historic Trail.
Both goals were met
Above is an actual photo of Ryan and his team competing in the Iditarod. Notice his lead dog "Foxtrot" on the right. This dog is totally focused on running the race and is oblivious to the photographer.
Ryan was a delightful and very interesting young man. We learned that the dogs wear booties to race (the green socks in the photo) to protect their feet from the sharp ice. Ryan autographed a bootie for everyone attending his presentation.
Spike Fortier, our tour director and owner of Alaska RV Tours was presented this photo for his support and sponsorship of Ryan and his team.
Ryan has a kennel of 60 dogs. Some he trains to race on his teams, while others he sells to other mushers.
Ryan has a kennel of 60 dogs. Some he trains to race on his teams, while others he sells to other mushers.
We stayed at Pullen RV Park, overlooking the fjord and
cruise ships. A great location, within easy walking distance of downtown.
During the summer months, four cruise ships descend upon this small town each day. Streets are bustling and like most cruise ship ports, overpopulated with cruise-line owned jewelry shops.
The cruise ships depart anytime between 6 and 9pm.
After about 8pm, the streets are deserted.
Today, Spike treated us to a driving tour of Skagway and surrounding area and, the history of the Stampeders and what the 1896 Klondike gold rush meant to Skagway.
With cries of Gold! Gold, in the Klondike! a brief and fascinating era captured the world. As a result of the find and good fortune of Skookum Jim Mason, Dawson Charlie and George Carmack, thousands of gold seekers from all over the world descended upon the tent and shack towns of Skagway and Dyea before the grueling 600 mile hike to the Yukon River. Their initial hardship was crossing the coastal mountain range. From Skagway they took the White Pass and from Dyea (about 15 miles out of Skagway) they took the Chilkoot Trail, said to be the toughest on men since pack animals could not easily climb the steep slopes leading to the pass.
Today, Spike treated us to a driving tour of Skagway and surrounding area and, the history of the Stampeders and what the 1896 Klondike gold rush meant to Skagway.
With cries of Gold! Gold, in the Klondike! a brief and fascinating era captured the world. As a result of the find and good fortune of Skookum Jim Mason, Dawson Charlie and George Carmack, thousands of gold seekers from all over the world descended upon the tent and shack towns of Skagway and Dyea before the grueling 600 mile hike to the Yukon River. Their initial hardship was crossing the coastal mountain range. From Skagway they took the White Pass and from Dyea (about 15 miles out of Skagway) they took the Chilkoot Trail, said to be the toughest on men since pack animals could not easily climb the steep slopes leading to the pass.
Stampeders using the Chilkoot Trail travelled up the Taiya River to Dyea, where they waited in long lines to begin the climb up to, and over the pass.
The start of the Chilkoot Trail.
We only climbed a few steps up the now reinforced Chilkoot Trail and could not imagine how the Stampeders packed a years worth of food and supplies up this rocky, tree rooted, steep and narrow path. Many needed 30 trips up this icy route before getting their gear to the top.
The Chilkoot Trail continues for 33 miles, up and over the pass. Each Stampeder had to do this 20-40 times to get their provisions to the top. On average, this portion of their journey would take about 6-10 weeks, depending on weather and conditions. Many perished or turned back. It is estimated that 100000 men started for the gold fields but only about 30000 actually arrived, and very few of those struck gold.
Once at the summit, they then had several hundred miles by water to reach the Klondike.
The majority arrived in the Yukon about 1898, only to find that most claims were taken. Exhausted and broke, many did whatever they could to earn a passage back home.
Upon arrival one is greeted by Skagways's largest gold nugget. The cemetery is now a historic sight.
Jefferson "Soapy" Smith, the King of con men was killed in a shootout with Frank Reid, one of the city fathers.
Smith's grave is on the outskirts of the cemetery because the towns folk would not allow him to be buried in the cemetery.
Frank Reid was injured during the fight and died a couple of weeks later from his wounds.
Frank, a hero, is buried in the cemetery and the monument erected in his honor is elaborate in comparison to the other markers.
There's gold in them thar waters!
Some of us brave souls plunged our hand into the water pools in search of gold.
My find from Reid Falls in Skagway. There is a tiny fleck in the far left.
Friendship around the fire after a fun day
A visit to the "Rock Shop" in Skagway.
One evenings entertainment was a visit to the Fun Casino at the FOE building, followed by "The Days of 98" show. A good time was enjoyed by all.
Fun at the casino
Concentration at the craps table
An enjoyable evening at the show following our gambling at the tables.
Fellow RV'er John Matthews was the big winner at the casino.
Oh John! Fellow RV'er was selected from our audience as a participant in the show.
Nice job John! Like he had a choice.
Oh John! You were a great sport.
Introducing the debut of can-can girls Gerrie & Carline selected from our audience.
If only Gerrie's knee surgeon could see her now.
That's John again...........
Cruise ships are all gone and the streets are deserted
"Fjordland Express", Boat Trip to Juneau
This morning was an early start. We met our boat and crew on the wharf for an 8am departure.
This family business, based in Haines, Alaska is owned and operated by Captain Glen Jacobson and his wife Alison. During the summer, they are ably assisted by daughters Anna, Libby, and son Ketch.
Fjordland is a 65' high speed catamaran.
Today's crew were Captain Glen and son Ketch.
We saw many bald eagles and Capt. Glen told us that there are about 1 per mile in this part of the world.
Waterfalls were stunning and abundant. The boat pulled alongside, allowing passengers ample opportunity for photographs.
This is one of the fast ferries, running from Skagway to Juneau.
Seals sunning themselves on the rocks.
After about 20 minutes, we had a brief stop in Haines to pick up passengers.
More eagles.
Captain Glen was a wealth of information and narrated most of the trip.
Ketch served us coffee and a blueberry muffin and apple for breakfast.
There was plenty of room to move about the boat, and many spent time on the aft deck, especially for photos.
In just under 2 hours, we docked at Yankee Cove, about 20 miles outside of Juneau. Here we boarded a tour bus for the drive into town. Kaitlyn, our bus driver and tour guide was knowledgeable, funny and accommodating.
After a brief stop to drop a few passengers at the airport, we continued into downtown Juneau, where we had 2 hours on our own to do as we pleased.
We were all hungry and most headed to Tracy's Seafood on the wharf for lunch.
The Alaska king crab legs did not disappoint. They were huge, juicy and so tasty.
The mini crab cakes and crab bisque were also exceptional.
Washed down with Alaska amber, we left full, satisfied and $106.00 lighter in the wallet.....well worth it! Service was fast, weather and company........priceless.
During our walk-about, we came upon this sign outside of one of the bars. Someone is entrepreneurial, especially when the cruise ships are in port and all the jewelry stores open. Much to Alan's dismay, all he got was to pose with the sign.
The sea plane terminal is right next to the cruise ship dock and it was interesting to watch the sightseeing seaplanes constantly come and go.
After lunch and a walk-about, we boarded the bus and headed for the Mendenhall Glacier.
Like most glaciers, Mendenhall is receding, and at the alarming rate of about 400 feet per year.
Our bus returned us to the catamaran, which had travelled to Juneau to pick us up.
The view on departure from the marina was outstanding.......a picture perfect day, glaciers on the mountain tops and every type of boat imaginable. From the smallest sailboat to fishing boats to huge mega yachts. What a great day, with more yet to come.
Captain Glen promised us whale watching on our return to Skagway. While nature does not always deliver, Glen said in his 26 years of running this route, he has never, not seen whales, and of course, today was no exception.
Other whale watching boats were in the area.
Glen explained that this pod of 11 humpback whales have been together in this area for years.
They feed using a method called bubble netting.
Bubble Net Feeding is a unique feeding technique employed by Humpback Whales, in which a group of whales swim in a shrinking circle blowing bubbles below a
school of fish. This shrinking column of bubbles surrounds the school of fish forcing them upward. The whales spontaneously swim upward through the bubble net, mouths wide open, catching thousands of fish in one gulp.
Glen told us to watch the birds. They know that when the whales blow the bubble net, the fish, krill and plankton come to the surface, thus easy feeding for the birds.
Bubble Net Feeding is a unique feeding technique employed by Humpback Whales, in which a group of whales swim in a shrinking circle blowing bubbles below a school of fish. This shrinking column of bubbles surrounds the school of fish forcing them upward. The whales spontaneously swim upward through the bubble net, mouths wide open, catching thousands of fish in one gulp
After mating season, the bulls leave the cows and live in their own colony.
This was an amazing day filled with so many memorable sights. Although a long day, 8AM to 8PM, it came to an end all to soon.
Other whale watching boats were in the area.
Glen explained that this pod of 11 humpback whales have been together in this area for years.
They feed using a method called bubble netting.
Bubble Net Feeding is a unique feeding technique employed by Humpback Whales, in which a group of whales swim in a shrinking circle blowing bubbles below a
school of fish. This shrinking column of bubbles surrounds the school of fish forcing them upward. The whales spontaneously swim upward through the bubble net, mouths wide open, catching thousands of fish in one gulp.
Glen told us to watch the birds. They know that when the whales blow the bubble net, the fish, krill and plankton come to the surface, thus easy feeding for the birds.
The photos do not do justice to this amazing spectacle. By the time one realized that the whales were surfacing and focused the camera, it was all but over. It will however, be permanently etched in our memories.
Glen put a microphone into the water and the whales could be heard communicating. He told us to "watch the birds, watch the birds", and as they circled close to the water, Glen said wait for the kill sign. One of the whales gave a command, and they all surfaced, mouths wide open, filling it with fish and krill. It was an amazing sight to witness, and we were lucky enough to see it 3 times.
Once we departed the whale watching grounds, Ketch served us dinner. Smoked salmon chowder, made in Juneau, a dinner roll and a monstrous chocolate chunk cookie. The chowder was delicious, and I just had to have a second bowl.
Our trip continued, stopping to see the bull sea lions.
After mating season, the bulls leave the cows and live in their own colony.
Lastly on this terrific voyage, we stopped to view and photograph this picturesque light house.
The light house and island are for sale. Although beautiful, one must enjoy remoteness and little social life.
This was an amazing day filled with so many memorable sights. Although a long day, 8AM to 8PM, it came to an end all to soon.
Special thanks to Captain Glen, Ketch and "Fjordland Express" for a once in a lifetime experience, and likely one of the most memorable experiences of this trip.
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